The path has now crossed an important line: from the English side of the county into the Welsh / Cymraeg. I've now changed onto a new map for North Pembrokeshire, and it is very noticeable on this map that from the north of Newgale (Niwgl) onwards, the majority of names (places, bays, rocks and so on) are Welsh. And so it will continue all the way from now on to Llandudoch (St Dogmaels). Gwych!
The start of the journey from Newgale beach was a switchback - or perhaps more like a bucking bronco trying to rid itself of me like a hapless horsefly - with countless steep ups and downs. The Park Authority has helpfully provided steps on many of the slopes, up which I dutifully toiled. But after a while I found myself using the unofficial 'escape routes' to the side of each set of stairs, as the risers of the steps seemed to get greater and greater.... I felt bad that I was probably adding to the erosion, but I am not a giant, or at least not incredibly fit . Going down again on the other side, I am like Christopher Robin, doing one step at a time.
The coastline on this part of the walk is like the frayed edge of a blanket - all rocky bobbles and ragged threads of rocks reaching out into the sea. Two adjacent peninsulas - Dinas Fach and Dinas Fawr - stick out into the bay. In between them is the National Trust's Pointz Castle - a mediaeval motte - and here there were once again photogenic ponies keeping the grass under control. As I was looking at my map to see how to reach the path to Dinas Fawr, the National Trust pony warden turned up. He had no idea where the path was but we had a good chat about the ponies - he looks after a lot of them for the NT and walks about 10 miles every day to do so.
The path out on to Dinas Fawr was not a lot further on, and I took the diversion out to the end of the point. What an amazing place: the path was very narrow, precarious and rocky. The lichen bore witness to the pureness of the air and the rocks were tipped with white edges. Magical. I tried not to look down too much. From the end of the promontory I could see back to Newgale and on to Solva. On the skyline to the south east the refinery chimneys of the Milford Haven waterway were still obvious.
And so on to Solva, past St Elvis's Farm where there is a small 'forgotten' chapel / holy place. I couldn't discern where it was - just remembered that it exists because I heard about it through PLANED.
Solva's small harbour is hidden away behind a couple of large headlands and I imagine it can be treacherous to navigate in by boat, but very sheltered once safely inside.
At one time Solva had 12 limekilns, a measure of what an important port it used to be. Now there are 4 left.
Del boy look out - parked on Solva quay, Will the Fish has a vehicle to rival Trotter's Independent Traders. I like the number plate. And I'm very partial to lobster & crab too...
The way from Solva to Caerfai (close to St David's) passed this impressive pre-historic fort at Porth y Rhaw. Quite often I find it difficult to make out the ramparts and other fortifications of the many forts along the coastline, as vegetation has claimed them. But I couldn't miss this one. Just before it, at Aberllong, there were the remains of three tugs which went aground on the rocks as recently as 1986.
Caerfai is a small beach at the foot of high cliffs very close to St David's. It has a wonderful mix of sand, rocks and caves to explore and a very steep path back up to the car park. I watched one dad arrive with a child on his shoulders: child dumped gently on the ground and dad immediately sat down too. Ah, those were the days.
Total walked: 110 out of 186
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