The first stage: Amroth to Tenby

I've been ignoring the Coast Path for years, only going on it for short walks and then really only as a means to getting to the beaches here in Pembrokeshire. However an increase in spare time and the realisation that I am getting more and more arthritic (or is it just unfit?) has prompted me to walk the length of the path. Not in one fell swoop, no! Leave that to the more adventurous / athletic. I shall do it in bits, probably quite short bits. I don't like walking, never have, at least that is what I always say.

So today was the big start off. I have set some parameters for myself. Firstly, I am going to walk the path in a clockwise fashion, which is from Amroth in the south of Pembrokeshire round to St Dogmaels up in the north. This means that (hopefully) the sun will be on my back for much of the way, given that I prefer getting up early and more importantly the views of the refineries / gas terminals etc on the Milford Haven waterway will be behind me when I reach the wild beauty of the western coast.

Secondly, I am going to walk the path in the order in which happens, not just cherry picking the bits which suit me. I am also going to walk the PATH, and not take short cuts across the beaches. I have walked many of the beaches already, particularly in the south.

Next, I am going to make full use of my free bus pass. I'd better get on with it, in case the cuts (careful with the spelling there) take it away from me.

Pembs County Council provide a variety of coastal bus services designed for walkers, all with irresistible names like Celtic Coaster, Strumble Shuttle, Puffin Shuttle, not forgetting the Poppet Rocket. Today, however, I had to settle for the prosaic 351 from Tenby to Amroth, due to leave at 7.10 a.m. It was quite a lot later when it arrived for duty, but I discovered why: the driver could pass by stops at high speed because he could see there were no waiting passengers. We didn't stop at the first 11 places on the timetable, but he was kind enough to ask me where I wanted to be dropped in Amroth, so that I didn't have to walk most of the length of the beach in order to reach the starting stone. I've no doubt he was punctual in Pendine, his last stop on the trip. Anyhow I am forewarned that I shall have to make myself quite obvious if I wish a bus to stop.

So there I was, off on my venture to walk back to Tenby. Fairly shortly I wished I hadn't been persuaded by the drizzle at home to bring my waterproof; it was totally unnecessary. The route from Amroth to Saundersfoot is not arduous. There was a posse of rabbits (counted at least 10) sunning themselves above Amroth. At Wiseman's Bridge I was humbled to see Rosie Swale's trailer which she tows whilst running / walking. I think she was inside it as it suddenly wobbled as I was taking a picture. She is apparently doing 26 marathons in 26 days, but presumably today was not one of those days.

There were people walking to work in Saundersfoot as I crossed the harbour, where the boats were lying in totally useless rows on the mud, waiting for the tide to finish going out and then to start on the slow process of filling the harbour as it comes back in. Then it was into the woods beyond Saundersfoot. The guide book warned that this bit of the walk was a bit more of a challenge, promising three small river valleys to be crossed between Saundersfoot and Tenby, each of which required a descent from the cliff top nearly to sea level. And so it was. Added to which I decided to take the beach path to Monkstone Point beach, a glorious stretch of yellow sand untouched by man / woman Friday. To get there you go down nearly 190 steps and the same back up again. A tree had come down across the steps. Nothing deterred I slithered under the trunk and surprised a small toad who had assumed he was the only creature limbo dancing this morning.

The legs were decidedly leaden as I arrived in Tenby, but I was determined to get right to the 'end' and finished up on Castle Hill where there is a memorial to Prince Albert, referred to on the inscription as Albert Dda (as in Hywel Dda). A seagull sat on his head.

Next stage is from Tenby to (perhaps) Manorbier, but may be a bit closer given the low level of my fitness.

Only another 179 or so miles to go to St Dogmaels.....